I don't hike, I've camped maybe one time before, and the highest I've ever been is when I went to Amsterdam in 2005. I don't know what convinced me that climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro at 19,334 feet over six days of hiking through various environments and camping was a good idea. Nevertheless, we embarked on the endeavor about a week ago, completely unsure of what was to come...
We arrived in Moshi, a small town at the foot of the mountain, after an all-day stay inside the Cairo airport followed by an overnight flight into Dar es Salaam where I promptly had a mini-freakout over the fact that we were actually in "real" Africa, a hurried cab ride to the Ubungo bus terminal where we managed to evade the swarms of scammers outside the terminal and get to our bus of choice, the Dar Express, luckily got a ticket for the next bus out of town and towards Moshi, an eight-hour ride through the surreal African landscape. Kaitlyn, in all her tribal glory, loved every second of the journey, waving to the various villagers as we passed by, smiling back at them, taking it all in while I went in and out of disheveled sleeping positions beside her. A man gets up from his seat on the bus, stands in the middle, and proceeds to give the captive passengers a thirty minute presentation in Swahili on each of the various soaps, toothpastes, and other cleaning products he individually takes out from his bag. Then came our first African "rest stop" as the bus pulled over to the side of the road not far from a mud house structure (the obvious home of some innocent villager) while all the passengers exited the bus. Naturally having to relieve ourselves, we followed suit. All the men seemed to head towards one side of the wooded area while the women to the other. It was an epic outdoor pee extravaganza as everyone seemed to leave their mark outside this poor villager's home. And then it happened. As we re-boarded the bus, seemingly full once again, Snyder and I looked at each other and wondered where Kaitlyn was as the bus began to slowly move forward. Then out the window, running out from the depths of the woods, came a frantic Kaitlyn, worst nightmare almost coming true. We stopped and everything turned out okay, though everyone on the bus had a good laugh about it.
We finally arrived in Moshi and took a taxi to what I was hoping was a pre-arranged hotel room for us as part of our climbing package. The ambiguity in the situation stemmed from the fact that in researching for this part of the trip and coming across company after company with costs well into the $1500 range per person for the climb, I contacted some people through my Couchsurfing network and got a seemingly great recommendation for a man named Pasian Peter, whose fee was only $950, a deal too good to pass up. I contacted him and have spent several months remaining in contact with him trying to do my best to plan this climb. After wiring $400 to this random man in Tanzania in July as part of our deposit, I really had no idea if he was even a real person let alone going to actually carry through with our agreement. Sure enough, we arrived at the hotel and I tentatively mentioned his name, just hoping a reservation was made. It was, and he was even there, awaiting our arrival. He bought us each a beer and sat us down to give us a brief account of what to expect on our climb. The next day, he even took us around town to various contacts of his so we could rent needed equipment cheaply. He was not only legit but a really nice guy whose reputation and the recommendations of travelers like us were the only things that kept his business afloat.
After a day of rest and gathering supplies around town and en evening spent eating at an Indo-Italian restaurant and drinking beers, something we hadn't tasted in nearly a month through the Arab world, the big climb was finally upon us.
Pasian Peter picked us up at the hotel room at 8:30 in a dala-dala, a type of big van used to shuttle large groups of people, and we set off towards the gates of the Machame Route of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Along the way to the mountain however, the first signs of trouble appeared as we had to pull over twice. Kaitlyn was sick. But she was determined to move forward with the climb, stomach problems be damned. We arrived at the gates and met up with the rest of our team. For the three of us, we had two guides, a cook, and seven porters, a team of ten Tanzanian men who would be with us for the next six days. After paying the exorbitant park admission fee of $600 something just to get in the park (already a part of the previously mentioned $995 total), we started our what would become, endless procession up the world's highest free standing mountain.
About six hours later, we arrived at our first camp site, exhausted and wondering what we had gotten ourselves into. Our tents were already set up, complete with sleeping bags and floor mats in place. We eagerly went inside and collapsed on the ground. Moments later, Baracka, the head porter, a 21-year-old who appeared to have some sort of bullet hole indentation in his forehead and whose English was limited at best, appeared with two bowls of piping hot water and some soap for us to wash ourselves and tidy up from the day's hard work. "A nice touch," I thought to myself. Then popcorn and tea were served as a little snack. We were able to rest for an hour or so, get a hold of our bearings and then Baracka came back with dinner, served atop a red and white blanket, as he meticulously placed the silverware side by side, the bowls and plates as well, and then the various condiments. First came the soup, a "fish soup" apparently, much to my dismay, though as it turned out, my favorite source of sustenance. Then came a second course, a bowl of assorted vegetable mushiness served alongside steamed rice. "Way to go Joe!" I applauded myself on a job well done as we all progressed to eat it all and enjoy our first evening spent on the slopes of Kilimanjaro.
The following days went on in much the same manner. Awaken at 7:00 to the sounds of our porters rumbling outside the tent, eat some breakfast (scrambled eggs and toast with some fruit most of the time) and drink some tea, pack up our bags inside the tent, and get in line as we began the long day's trek once more up the mountain to some destination point unknown but never "very far" as our guides optimistically yet incorrectly always asserted. Our porters and the porters of other hikers soon passed by us, somehow carrying bags and backpacks and other heavy supplies atop their heads as they brushed by us at incredible speeds and we stood out of breath to the sides in amazement at their mobility, strength and balance. "Jambo" (hello) they would all say to us as they breezed by with a smile on their face, "Pole Pole," Swahili for "slowly, slowly," the ubiquitous creedo for the climb up. We would undoubtedly reach our camp, always exhausted and always in doubt about the next day's efforts.
On the fourth day, after arriving at our camp before sunset, we were told we were going to be woken up at 11:00 p.m. to drink some tea and eat a snack before embarking on our final ascent to the summit and begin what would become 13 hours of nonstop hiking. Needless to say, none of us were very excited about the prospects of hiking in the middle of the night up this gigantic mountain in the bitter cold, unable to really see what was in front of us or the type of terrain we had to battle, yet it had to be done if we wanted to reach the summit. We set off, one by one, following our guide "Tino," a Masai man, the soft-spoken leader of our group. "Sistah, you okay?" he would often turn around and ask Kaitlyn, always the first one of us to lead the pack. He knew she had an upset stomach for most of this endeavor and wanted to make sure she could still forge ahead. "And your friend?" he inquired to her on my behalf for some reason. We had to stop at several points along the mountain for bathroom breaks, to catch our breath and to drink some needed water. We were ascending some 1200 meters in this short period of time, a potentially dangerous undertaking for us very amateur mountaineers. Tears were shed and serious doubts were cast as we each struggled upwards. More than once the prospects of turning around and heading back to camp seemed to be a better alternative than continuing on through the hell we were in. But Tino would not have it. He believed in us and pushed us ahead. "Ain't no mountain high enough..." and Kanye West's "Stronger" kept playing through my head. "Ya'll probably won't make it," echoed constantly in my mind, motivating me to go further and further if only to prove to Kaitlyn's dad that I could make it and, in turn, could do anything I put my mind towards doing. The sun slowly began to rise from the horizon at our backs and the top of the mountain seemed further and further away. We buckled down one last time mustering up whatever strength we had left and forged ahead. At around 7:30, we took our last steps upward and finally reached the summit of the beast we had been battling. We jubilantly hugged one another and took a view downwards at what we had accomplished. Unfortunately, however, this was not THE end. This was merely Stella Point, a feat in and of itself, though not Uhuru, the absolute peak at the rooftop of Africa. After drinking some water and forcing down an energy bar, we forged ahead for the hour plus walk further ahead towards Uhuru. The altitude began to take its toll on each of us as Snyder began talking all crazily and I began to feel dizzy. Glaciers were all around us as we trekked through this bizarre landscape atop the world. Emotions soon overcame each of us as I began thinking about everything we had accomplished and how far we had come. I started thinking about my dad and what he would think about what we had just done. I thought about Kaitlyn and how she fought through her stomach problems, readily smiling and "Jambo-ing" every porter that we passed by despite being ill, about her strength and determination, about our future together and how proud I was of her and of us. We had finally done it...we had reached Uhuru, 19,334 feet high, and we had done it all together, every step of the way.
There is no way to fully describe the sense of accomplishment that comes with climbing a mountain. Sitting atop there, taking it all in, really put things into perspective about how far we have already come on this trip together and how lucky we are to be here doing this. With only one month behind us and already a lifetime of memories made, the next four months are sure to only get better and better. Thank you to everyone for reading this and following along on our journey with us. Thank you especially to the Bagnatos for last minute scrounging around to make sure we had the right medications to make sure we didn't contract malaria or get altitude sickness on this leg of our trip. We couldn't have made it to the top without you!
We are now off to Zanzibar for some much needed rest and relaxation. Pictures will be posted soon from the past few weeks so check back in the next few days!
Musings...
Tanzanians, believe it or not, are cleaner than Egyptians. They have trash receptacles on the street and the streets aren't littered in garbage. Good for you Tanzania!
Having said that, it also seems plenty fine to just walk down the street here, openly picking your nose. So, when in Rome....
Snyder got altitude sickness on the mountain. He had to be carried down the mountain on a stretcher by the porters. This is one of the greatest ironies of my life...the triathlete, hiker and camper extraordinaire has to be carried down the mountain while I, the tv watching loafer, climbs up and down triumphantly.
Where did we relieve ourselves on the mountain? In a five by five wooden house-like structure with a rectangle hole in the ground. Sometimes, people miss, which is unfortunate for everyone.
Congratulations, Kaitlyn and Joe! I'm proud of y'all; what an amazing accomplishment!
ReplyDeleteLove from the States,
MC
stellar post Joe!
ReplyDeleteKaitlyn...wow....that's true dedication...and love! can't wait to see the pictures.
ReplyDeleteBelieve me India is going to be a luxury!
Love you
Aunt Jennie
p.s. Joe: love your writing....it's better than what's on my nightstand now!
So unbelievably proud of you two!!! That is an amazing accomplishment and a once in a lifetime experience! Can't wait to see the pictures and talk to ya'll! Love you!!!
ReplyDeleteKbags I am so proud of you!! I think I would've given up! Props to Joe too. Yall make me so proud and jealous!! Love yall and let me know when I need to wire some money for a awesome gift!!
ReplyDeleteKaitlyn, I'm so impressed by your dedication! Most people can't manange everyday chores when they get a stomach bug, let alone climb the tallest mountain! Congratulations on that accomplishment and good luck on the rest of your trip! I'm loving reading your blog!
ReplyDeleteJenny (Trout) Perry
The stomach bugs can definitely be killer! A bunch of our group was struck in Malawi and were pretty miserable. But it's so awesome that you guys made it to the top and can still remember it! So many people just completely black out :)
ReplyDeleteEnjoy Zanzibar too! It was such an interesting mixture of Caribbean colonialism, tourism and Arab culture. And the seafood was so amazing. If you're still there and haven't gone to the night markets, make sure you go! They are definitely an event for mzungus, but I had a great time and ate awesome food :)
I'm humbled. That is an amazing report. Your did would have been really proud of your accomplishments and bravery on this trip. Enjoy Zanzibar (civilization) and recovery from hiking. I hope there are lots of pictures to share when you return to the States. Safe travels!
ReplyDeleteValerie B
Oops, 'your Dad'. Sorry I just worked 12 hours and then ran 7 miles. Still haven't slept yet.
ReplyDeleteSo awesome...congrats guys! Joe, this post makes me miss you and Snyder...I can only imagine what a journey that was together, and even better with your lady! Congrast again...well done to a man who spent our whole college experience on the couch for the most part. :-)
ReplyDeleteWow, Joe... I am so impressed. I just started reading your blog for about the last two entries (India and Somoa) and was so entertained, I decided to read from the beginning of your trip. The dedication that you and Kaitlyn show each other is amazing and I'm so happy for you both! I think Kaitlyn just became my very own hero because if she can hike up Mt. Kilimanjaro with stomach sickness then I should be able to go for a walk without an excuse! What an amazing trip you guys are having.
ReplyDelete~Crystal Taunton Polomski