We arrived here around midnight on Wednesday the 18th after an all night bus ride from Essouaira to Casablanca, Kaitlyn being sick upon arrival at the bus depot and throughout the remainder of the day, an arduous trek through the streets of Casablanca to find the world’s third largest mosque and miraculously getting escorted there by a Moroccan naval officer, a plethora of taxi disputes and train rides en route to the airport, and finally figuring out how to navigate the check-in process for our Air Maroc flight. Our plane’s final destination, as it turned out, was Riyadh, the capital of Saudi Arabia.
Most people probably won’t admit to it but I know that whenever you’re getting ready to board a plane, people watching in the airport, a part of you is always on the lookout for “foreigners,” as we’ll call them. It’s okay to admit it, we’re all friends here. Now imagine boarding a plane that is literally headed to the Mecca of these “foreigners” and sitting in the aisle across from eight Wahabi gentlemen, all decked out in their infamous white robes and red and white checkered head coverings. Imagine further that you are the only two Americans on board and that it is Ramadan and most of the people on board with you have been fasting all day. Finally, imagine that all these men beside you, behind you, and in front of you are reading the Quran, shaking back and forth, praying, and then at an assigned time, one of them loudly and yet lyrically shouts for all the plane to hear “Allah Akbar!”
While Kaitlyn made friends with the girl beside her (a black 21-year-old Saudi who despised her country and spoke impeccable english), gingerly carrying on conversation without a care in the world, mostly unaware of the anxiety overtaking me as a result of everything that was occurring, I was sizing the guys up, wondering if I could take them while simultaneously taking stock of the illustrious life of Joe Statile. And then, as fate would have it, the man sitting next to me got up from his seat and offered us dates, a staple fruit of the region, before progressing to walking up and down the aisle of the plane, passing out dates to our fellow passengers. He was, as it turns out, just a helluva nice guy, all smiles now that he could finally eat and excited to share in his celebration with others on board. Being the culturally savvy guy I like to think I am, yes, I do feel about judging him...but come on!
We paid for our Egyptian visas at the airport and were greeted soon after customs by my best friend and college roommate, Chris Snyder, who flew into Cairo hours earlier. We took a cab to our hostel in the Islamic section of Cairo and somehow managed to stay up until 4 in the morning catching up on things. The next day all three of us slept in and otherwise took it easy, a welcomed rest, before checking out the nearby Khan al-Khalili market, a medieval bizarre, and also a gigantic tourist trap. This market was nothing like the souks of Morocco, lacking in all the personality of the winding corridors and legitimacy of its existence, and instead a huge waste of time and money as the boisterous Egyptian shopkeepers shout at you from every angle, desperately trying to get you to walk into their store. It is at this point where both Kaitlyn and I decided that we were already fed up with the Arab world and all their shenanigans, though yes, indeed we still have about a month left to look forward to!
Cairo reminds me in many ways of Rome, very old, very loud, and very dirty; a place that I imagine takes some time to grow fond of. We, however, only have three days, and the constant honking of every car that goes by and taxi wanting to take us somewhere, the grabbing of the shopkeepers as we pass by, and the incessant fear that every person we meet is trying to rip us off in some way, certainly aren’t helping us grow very fond of the city. It is hot, oh so very hot, with garbage everywhere and people with their hand out always looking for that extra little baksheesh, of which we are never really sure how much is expected for a service, since it seems like money is constantly being traded between people and prices are always in flux, depending on who you ask and at what time. It is a huge city, old mixed with the new, though I fear with a never changing third world perspective.
Yesterday we went to Giza, an area about 40 minutes outside Cairo, to see the pyramids. It was a surreal experience that we never forget, by far the highlight of our trip so far. We did it all atop a camel, for what was surely way too much money (plus baksheesh of course) but well worth every dime. We were there, at a place that many dream about seeing and a place we have all read about as kids with so much fascination and intrigue. They truly are awe-inspiring and a testament to the ingenuity and possibilities of humanity. Our guide was fantastic, a great photographer with impeccable english, able to tell us about them and keep us interested. It’s still hard to believe we were there!
We are currently sitting on an overnight train down to Luxor. We have a private sleeping compartment, the most comfortable traveling experience thus far. We’ll check out the Valley of the Kings and Queens and the Karnak Temple and take a felucca (boat) ride down the Nile before heading back to Cairo to catch our flight to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, then a bus up to Mt. Kilimanjaro. One week from now we will (hopefully) be somewhere on Africa’s highest mountain, crazy! Luckily, we’ll still have Snyder with us, a definitely more experienced outdoorsman than us both combined who will hopefully help get us to the top! We are entering the wildest and most unpredictable portion of our trip so please bear with us if we don’t post anything new for a few days. Internet will be sporadic in Tanzania...plus we’ll be on top of a mountain. But we will post as soon as we can, whenever we can! Thanks for all your support and stay in touch!
Musings
Snyder has brought an incredible amount of enthusiasm on board our journey. His amusing ways keep us entertained. Plus, much to Kaitlyn’s delight, he likes to eat. He has seemingly sampled everything available and seems to find random meats to eat throughout the day. He also tried to make friends with everyone, including those who do not speak a lick of english.
If you ask someone where a trash can is in Cairo, they will laugh at you and point at the ground.
I lost my Iphone somewhere. “What an idiot...” Blah Blah Blah...I know, I know. Long story short, for insurance purposes, we had to get a police report So, at around midnight, Kaitlyn and I went down to the busy bizarre and found the tourist police (police-like people seem to ubiquitous here). We were greeted by a guy seemingly ripped from a movie about foreign espionage, well-dressed in plain clothes, smoking, asking if we wanted something to drink, asking about our story of this phone. Yadda yadda yadda, next thing I know we are being escorted by a large mustached man (mustaches are extremely popular here) through the growing crowds of Egyptians, several blocks into the bizarre, as he pushes people out of our way to make a path. He takes us to what appeared to be a prison and pointed to a location we were to wait, as we heard screams and a what appeared to be a whip cracking somewhere in the building and men were standing in a line, some chained together, looking like they were being booked or something. We apparently had to get a stamp from this place on the report our original guy wrote up and the approval of another guy who seemed to be in charge of the entire operation. Two hours later, we were free to go. It was an incredible experience, to say the least, well worth the loss of my phone!
They love tea here, and it always must be drank from a glass, even on the street, which is odd.
The Nile is actually cleaner than expected.