Sunday, August 22, 2010

"...But For You, Good Price"

"Welcome to Egypt," says nearly every man we pass on the streets, a somewhat different greeting than what we were expecting upon our arrival here. We were told that Egyptians were the rudest people in the Arab world, that it was nearly impossible to get around, and that everyone we met was going to expect a little "backsheesh," a tip for doing anything from letting us use the bathroom, to giving us tea, to doing absolutely nothing other than sitting around. Now, before I go any further into giving you the impression that we love it here or that Cairo is an absolute dream, let me also point out that every single one of these extremely welcoming Egyptian men has also taken an incredibly creepy interest in Kaitlyn's apparently incredibly sexy knees, complete with mouths agape, pointing, smiles, and near motorcycle wrecks. With the attention "the finest knees in the south" is bringing (and the subsequent havoc being wrought), I do wonder if this warm reception is genuinely for us or more for Kaitlyn's titillating calf muscles.


We arrived here around midnight on Wednesday the 18th after an all night bus ride from Essouaira to Casablanca, Kaitlyn being sick upon arrival at the bus depot and throughout the remainder of the day, an arduous trek through the streets of Casablanca to find the world’s third largest mosque and miraculously getting escorted there by a Moroccan naval officer, a plethora of taxi disputes and train rides en route to the airport, and finally figuring out how to navigate the check-in process for our Air Maroc flight. Our plane’s final destination, as it turned out, was Riyadh, the capital of Saudi Arabia.

Most people probably won’t admit to it but I know that whenever you’re getting ready to board a plane, people watching in the airport, a part of you is always on the lookout for “foreigners,” as we’ll call them. It’s okay to admit it, we’re all friends here. Now imagine boarding a plane that is literally headed to the Mecca of these “foreigners” and sitting in the aisle across from eight Wahabi gentlemen, all decked out in their infamous white robes and red and white checkered head coverings. Imagine further that you are the only two Americans on board and that it is Ramadan and most of the people on board with you have been fasting all day. Finally, imagine that all these men beside you, behind you, and in front of you are reading the Quran, shaking back and forth, praying, and then at an assigned time, one of them loudly and yet lyrically shouts for all the plane to hear “Allah Akbar!”

While Kaitlyn made friends with the girl beside her (a black 21-year-old Saudi who despised her country and spoke impeccable english), gingerly carrying on conversation without a care in the world, mostly unaware of the anxiety overtaking me as a result of everything that was occurring, I was sizing the guys up, wondering if I could take them while simultaneously taking stock of the illustrious life of Joe Statile. And then, as fate would have it, the man sitting next to me got up from his seat and offered us dates, a staple fruit of the region, before progressing to walking up and down the aisle of the plane, passing out dates to our fellow passengers. He was, as it turns out, just a helluva nice guy, all smiles now that he could finally eat and excited to share in his celebration with others on board. Being the culturally savvy guy I like to think I am, yes, I do feel about judging him...but come on!

We paid for our Egyptian visas at the airport and were greeted soon after customs by my best friend and college roommate, Chris Snyder, who flew into Cairo hours earlier. We took a cab to our hostel in the Islamic section of Cairo and somehow managed to stay up until 4 in the morning catching up on things. The next day all three of us slept in and otherwise took it easy, a welcomed rest, before checking out the nearby Khan al-Khalili market, a medieval bizarre, and also a gigantic tourist trap. This market was nothing like the souks of Morocco, lacking in all the personality of the winding corridors and legitimacy of its existence, and instead a huge waste of time and money as the boisterous Egyptian shopkeepers shout at you from every angle, desperately trying to get you to walk into their store. It is at this point where both Kaitlyn and I decided that we were already fed up with the Arab world and all their shenanigans, though yes, indeed we still have about a month left to look forward to!

Cairo reminds me in many ways of Rome, very old, very loud, and very dirty; a place that I imagine takes some time to grow fond of. We, however, only have three days, and the constant honking of every car that goes by and taxi wanting to take us somewhere, the grabbing of the shopkeepers as we pass by, and the incessant fear that every person we meet is trying to rip us off in some way, certainly aren’t helping us grow very fond of the city. It is hot, oh so very hot, with garbage everywhere and people with their hand out always looking for that extra little baksheesh, of which we are never really sure how much is expected for a service, since it seems like money is constantly being traded between people and prices are always in flux, depending on who you ask and at what time. It is a huge city, old mixed with the new, though I fear with a never changing third world perspective.

Yesterday we went to Giza, an area about 40 minutes outside Cairo, to see the pyramids. It was a surreal experience that we never forget, by far the highlight of our trip so far. We did it all atop a camel, for what was surely way too much money (plus baksheesh of course) but well worth every dime. We were there, at a place that many dream about seeing and a place we have all read about as kids with so much fascination and intrigue. They truly are awe-inspiring and a testament to the ingenuity and possibilities of humanity. Our guide was fantastic, a great photographer with impeccable english, able to tell us about them and keep us interested. It’s still hard to believe we were there!

We are currently sitting on an overnight train down to Luxor. We have a private sleeping compartment, the most comfortable traveling experience thus far. We’ll check out the Valley of the Kings and Queens and the Karnak Temple and take a felucca (boat) ride down the Nile before heading back to Cairo to catch our flight to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, then a bus up to Mt. Kilimanjaro. One week from now we will (hopefully) be somewhere on Africa’s highest mountain, crazy! Luckily, we’ll still have Snyder with us, a definitely more experienced outdoorsman than us both combined who will hopefully help get us to the top! We are entering the wildest and most unpredictable portion of our trip so please bear with us if we don’t post anything new for a few days. Internet will be sporadic in Tanzania...plus we’ll be on top of a mountain. But we will post as soon as we can, whenever we can! Thanks for all your support and stay in touch!

Musings

Snyder has brought an incredible amount of enthusiasm on board our journey. His amusing ways keep us entertained. Plus, much to Kaitlyn’s delight, he likes to eat. He has seemingly sampled everything available and seems to find random meats to eat throughout the day. He also tried to make friends with everyone, including those who do not speak a lick of english.

If you ask someone where a trash can is in Cairo, they will laugh at you and point at the ground.

I lost my Iphone somewhere. “What an idiot...” Blah Blah Blah...I know, I know. Long story short, for insurance purposes, we had to get a police report So, at around midnight, Kaitlyn and I went down to the busy bizarre and found the tourist police (police-like people seem to ubiquitous here). We were greeted by a guy seemingly ripped from a movie about foreign espionage, well-dressed in plain clothes, smoking, asking if we wanted something to drink, asking about our story of this phone. Yadda yadda yadda, next thing I know we are being escorted by a large mustached man (mustaches are extremely popular here) through the growing crowds of Egyptians, several blocks into the bizarre, as he pushes people out of our way to make a path. He takes us to what appeared to be a prison and pointed to a location we were to wait, as we heard screams and a what appeared to be a whip cracking somewhere in the building and men were standing in a line, some chained together, looking like they were being booked or something. We apparently had to get a stamp from this place on the report our original guy wrote up and the approval of another guy who seemed to be in charge of the entire operation. Two hours later, we were free to go. It was an incredible experience, to say the least, well worth the loss of my phone!

They love tea here, and it always must be drank from a glass, even on the street, which is odd.

The Nile is actually cleaner than expected.

"Welcome to Alaska" seems to be said by nearly everyone here...it was funny the first time....

Monday, August 16, 2010

"Yabba Dabba Dabba Doo..."

...Or something like that, incessantly yells a boy selling some sort of Kool Aid like packet outside our window in Essouaira. We are staying in a pink, dollhouse-esque room in the heart of the old medina, yet another UNESCO World Heritage site we've been able to see thus far in our trip. Thousands of passerbys move along in a seemingly neverending procession two stories beneath us carrying out their daily routines. The same men sell their vegetables, their sweet treats (much to Kaitlyn's delight), and their fresh meat products to their same customers day after day, in what seems to be a neverending cacophony of commerce, literally for 24 hours every day. Life is simple here, with little need for fancy brand names (other than the usual knock offs to appeal to the tourist demand, such as my sweet new "Ron-Beu" sunglasses) or even refrigeration for that matter since everything is fresh enough to eat.

We like it here. For the past three days, we've been able to "chillax" as the kids say, sit along the beach and really get to know the town. Essouaira has been the perfect final stop in our whirlwind tour of Morocco, a relaxing respite amongst an otherwise often chaotic first country on our grand world tour.

We arrived here by bus on Saturday morning, a delightful bus with air conditioning, wonderful seats and even a bathroom on board. It was, of course, with a company called Supratours, a bit more expensive than the local bus would have been, but a world more comfortable of a three hour ride. We decided to bail on Marrakech a bit earlier than expected due to Kaitlyn's own Friday the 13th horror story. The place we were staying at in Marrakech, aside from being equipped with such amenities as wi-fi internet, free breakfast, and our own bathroom with warm water (a first for us!), it seems to have also been furnished with a plethora of bed bugs, who absolutely feasted upon Kaitlyn. Being the master of funk that she is, Kaitlyn for whatever reason, seems to always draw various and random maladies, albeit poison ivy, mosquito bites, other unknown rashes and now bed bugs while I, on the other hand, perhaps turned off by my surly demeanor, seem to consistenly remain blemish free, which of course, only further added to Kaitlyn's dismay.

For those of you new to bed bugs, they are making a resurgence back in America, notably in high end hotels in the New York City area. There are no real ways to get rid of them. They are extremely tiny creatures that live in the crevasses of your mattress or box spring and come out at night to feast upon a host. They can survive for a year without eating. They make you itch incessantly and cause large red circular bumps, in Kaitlyn's case, almost cartoonishly red and huge, like she was starring in a broadway musical called "Mumps!" The good news, however, is that, in most scientific circles anyway, they do not carry disease and other than being a major annoyance, they are harmless.

Kaitlyn tried to go through the day as normal, and did a fine job of it I might add, though hour upon hour, she seemed to sprout new red circles until it got to the point of just being plain ridiculous. We packed up our stuff and headed down to the reception desk where we did our best to get out of paying for the day (as it was already 5:00 p.m.). I wrote out "bed bugs" in French on a piece of paper while Kaitlyn wearily displayed her "Marrakech markings," as we shall now call them, until the lady said it was okay for us to leave. We made our way to the bus station, fully frustrated with Marrakech and wanting to just get away from it all. We had to wait until the next morning to get out of town and into Essouaira, which was literally a breath of fresh ocean air.

We will be taking an overnight bus up to Casablanca tomorrow (Tuesday) and spend the beginning of the day checking out the world's third largest mosque before heading to the airport and onwards to Cairo, where we will meet with my old roommate and best friend, Chris Snyder, for the next two weeks between Egypt and Tanzania. Morocco will soon be behind us, an enchanting country to which we would both like to return to someday. We're done with our first country, never with a map or with a lick of French or Arabic, and came out okay! It was the perfect amount of time here and a great transition into the Arab and Muslim world we will inhabit for the next two months. It's kind of hard to believe that the trip has only just begun and we've already had so many unforgettable moments and experiences. The Pyramids are right around the corner...

Musings...

We ate at a Mexican restaurant cooked and owned by an older British couple in Essouaira. Yes, it was very good.

We sat on the roof of our hotel last night and ate dinner while an Arab woman in the window across from us, not realizing our presence, was deciding on which lingerie she was going to wear for the evening, and yes, we even saw her in her underpants

It's been nice to pee again...we've gotten used to just sweating it all out.

It's funny how aghast we can be over the price of things. A wonderful meal for two can cost around 140 dirhams, about $16.50, yet that is still so far out of our budget! And don't even get Kaitlyn started on the 2 dirhams for two sweets when yesterday the same guy gave her four sweets for that same amount.

Am I supposed to trim portions of my beard? The moustache portion is now extending over my lips and connecting with my chin portion and my mouth is somewhere underneath all this.

Kaitlyn is slowly becoming a sort of artsy, photographing gypsy as of late, complete with head scarf, dangling earrings, and smelly attire. And I like it, a lot.

Thursday, August 12, 2010

You're taking this personal hygiene to a whole new level...

Famous last words?!?!...Joe told me that some point over the last few days and given our surroundings he's probably right. After our bus ride from hell we made it to fez which was really cool! (i'll do my best not to repeat things that Joe has said.) The people have been so nice and whenever I tell them I'm from America they get big eyes and say "a very big welcome." Its so sweet and genuine. We had a good time wandering through the alleys of fez that were jam packed with stalls of vendors selling everything from live chickens (though willing to ring their necks and skin them for you right there) to piles of womens bras. Quite a sight to see! We stayed at a riad which from my understanding, is a house that has been turned into a small hotel. It was really pretty and the people that ran it were so nice!
One night after a long day in the heat I talked joe into carrying a watermelon back with us unsure of how we would eat the thing that had been sweltering in the heat all day and she of course insisted on cutting it up and putting it in the fridge for us. She also hung some our clothes on the roof to dry and folded them. Which reminds me...Washing clothes in the bath tub is quite an endeavor! It takes forever to wash and really takes forever to dry. and then there is no warm, soft dryer fresh clothes to smell as a reward. Oh well...we are clean. sort of! (Hot water is a relative term, I have learned. Here it generally is accepted to mean any water not ice cold, which doesn't really exist anyhow.)

I hate not being able to speak the language and communicate with the people. Like with the sweet lady at our riad who didn't speak a lick of english, I - of course - continually try to communicate. I'm sure she wonders why I can't understand that she doesn't speak English or Spanish. (which even if she did I couldn't understand.) It really is a pitiful endeavor! But it makes me so sad to not be able to communicate with people.

Anyhow, we took a train out of Fez heading to Marrakesh. The ride started out well with just us and another business man in the booth, but took an unexpected turn for the worse when a young, well dressed and put together guy sat down next to me. After that, I got the most wretched wiff of body odor one could imagine with his every move. There is absolutely no way in the world that he could have not noticed the smell of himself! And it was so shocking because he looked so nicely dressed and was even reading a Time magazine in English. (after attempting conversation, I'm not sure how. Yes, I even attempted conversation with the smelly guy!) And I can't forget Don Juan with his hicky and girlfriend! Once his girlfriend got off he starting macking on another chick in our booth. It was quite entertaining!

After spending one night in sweat puddles, we are now at a nicer place and enjoying Marrakesh. It is quite touristy with snake charmers coming up and demanding payment for pictures while violin playing men try to insert themselves in your pictures in order to demand payment. But it still is a sight to see and an experience to be had and we are enjoying ourselves. We are of course, looking forward to a little r and r and breeze on the coast! =)

Thanks for all the comments, emails, etc. We love hearing from you and are currently uploading pictures so you can see some of the beautiful places we have been!

Kaitlyn

Scallywags and Whiskers

And here we are, on the outskirts of the Sahara desert in the dead of summer on the first day of the Islamic month of Ramadan. Marrakesh, forever conjuring up images of the exotic, the mysterious and the surreal, as it turns out, is a big fat disappointment. We have managed to avoid (seemingly) the tourist scene since our time in Morocco until our glorious nine hour train ride in a sweltering compartment with the sometimes French speaking, sometimes whisker plucking, and all the time smelly six rotating chamber mates pulled into its final stop of the day at around 9:30 p.m. Enthusiastic to be finally given the opportunity to escape from our railroad of despair, we hurried into the station, glad to be alive and well, and breathing the fresh air....of french fries and burgers! That's right, our reward for enduring the experience was a long anticipated (by me at least) treat of McDonalds...and a happy meal it was indeed! Surprisingly, finally fed up with tajines, mystery couscous, and the lure of gaily "trying new things" and the accompanying disappointment in my reluctance to do so, Ksitlyn was also eager to score some Golden Arches. We downed a meal, then another, and elatedly hailed a cab to the much anticipated Djemma el Fna, the historical epicenter of this supposedly magical city. Now as previously mentioned, a map or guidebook, we have not. "Just winging it..." I tell people with a nervous grin. As such, we headed down a side street to evade the massive spectacle of lights and smoke before us to find a place to crash for the evening. Without going into further detail, we found a place for 150 dirham, the equivalent of around $17.50, by far, the most inexpensive place we have stayed in thusfar. Borrowing from my favorite show Seinfeld, yadda yadda yadda, we are now staying in a different place which has afforded us our first opportunity to use wireless internet and upload some pictures.

Marrakesh reminds me of the New Jersey shore (no, not the show...definitely no guidos or guidettes here and based on our experiences thus far in close quarters with many of these people, the L of GTL is definitely missing [gym, tanning, laundry, get with it people!]) There are tourists galore and each souk (market) seems to exist solely for tourists to peruse through and glare at in wonder. There are motor bikes aplenty ready to run you down through the narrow passageways and swaths of humanity aimlessly wandering about. Today is the first day of Ramadan, a holy month for Muslims in which "good" Muslims are to abstain from eating, smoking, drinking (even water) and any other pleasures of life for the entirety of daylight. We have seen many shopkeepers sleeping in their stalls, reading the Quran, and dousing themselves with water to take their mind off the reality of the harsh heat around them.

Kaitlyn and I didnt know what to expect for Ramadan. We had no idea if we were even going to be able to get food or water anywhere, expecting the town to shut down. Instead, it is business as usual here, only without any of the locals really taking part in any of the eating or drinking. Tourists are too important to their economy to close shop altogether. Perhaps what irks me the most about the sheer abundance of tourists here is their inability to be the slightest bit considerate of the locals. It is considered impolite to eat or drink in public, not to mention in poor taste and a cause for unnecessary attention to wear revealing clothes. No matter though for most of these tourists....go ahead Maria from Spain, smoke that cigarette and munch on a kebob while you wear those tiny shorts and tank top and talk that old sweaty, thirsty Arab man down 2 dirham (about a quarter) for that souvenir you want. You're staying at Club Med....he's sleeping in that stall....Oh well! It's just obnoxious and I feel only adds to many Arabs' feelings of hostility towards the West.

But enough ranting.... Fes was one of the coolest places I have ever been. No trip to Morocco would be complete without a trip there. The old medina (walled city) is one of the largest car free environments on the earth. It was real Morocco, raw and unfiltered. There were toursists, but more locals than anything else. Locals doing everything from getting their meat for the day (camel heads, fresh chickens being slaughtered before our eyes, random hooves, ), to collecting vegetables and other daily necessities. The medina was impossible to navigate, with winding passageways and alleys through every twist and turn. Locals continuously offered to "guide" us...for a fee of course. I would mumble nonsense with different pitches of my voice to get them to leave us alone which they often did. People here speak Arabic. Most often know French and also bits and pieces of English and Spanish, enough to conduct whatever business they are trying to tout to tourists at least. Kaitlyn often likes to pretend she's Spanish to communicate with people whereas I prefer not to communicate other than the intelligble grunting and ignoring of others (I knew these traits of mine would come in handy!). The touts in Fes were a lot less pushy than they are here in Marrakesh, well other than one gentleman who had the audacity to call Kaitlyn a "scallywag," which according to wikipedia is a "southern white who supported Reconstruction following the Civil War," to which I must fault him for his backwords ideologies.

We're having a great time...pictures are posted and will continue to be posted while we are here in Marrakech. We will soon head to Essaouira along the coast for some down time along the waves and ocean breezes before catching our flight to Cairo on August 18. We love seeing your comments and knowing that people are as excited about our journey as we are! Keep them coming!

Hope everything is well with you all!   

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Sunday, August 8, 2010

Where Have All the Cowboys Gone?!?!


If you have ever been to a `Wild West` city...you know, the kind with a fake sagebrush rolling across the one dirt road through the center of the town re-creation, you will perhaps be able to relate to today`s scenery aboard the `bus from hell,`as Kaitlyn so eloquently described it.

There were no buses to Fes today from Chefchaouen but we met some other travelers who told us to go through a town called Sidi Kassem, so we did, ever so gingerly. In what was supposed to be a three hour bus ride, we arrived at our destination five hours later, completely enveloped in sweat. It was a memorable experience, to say the least. Aside from the joys of waiting on the crowded, stagnant bus in the dead of summer, steps away from the Sahara desert on a windless day, just waiting for the driver to decide to go ahead and begin, you know, to drive, we were privy to see some truly authentic `towns,` the sort that can only be described as unique. Imagine the Wild West town, complete with cart pulling donkeys, people staring off into space outside their doors, and old men shuffling by with canes and years of wear on their faces. Now, imagine the Air Force dropping several bombs on the place, the people making a few repairs here and there, but then deciding that eh, it just wasnt worth it...it`just too hot and besides, who has the time anyway?! Gorgeous indeed.

It wasnt all so ùnique`, however. The views of the surrounding Rif Mountains really was beautiful and did not distract too much from the accompanying queasiness associated with the winding roads or the soaking wet blue noodle sitting beside me [Kaitlyn]. We met a Canadian couple on the bus traveling for a year who talked us into a night in Meknes, which is where we are right now. Their fluent French was again a godsend and their Lonely Planet guidebook really makes us think we should pick one up as being mapless, language-less, sweaty and hungry is making it more and more apparent to be an assinine endeavour (and I will use the U there...take that America!).

We have a train to catch in the morning to Fes where we will stay for a few days before heading to Marrakesh. Ramadan is set to begin on the 11th, though apparently not too much should be different. Other than not eating in public, we should be okay. The Arab world seems to come abuzz with activity when the sun comes down, and with the time apparently and yet mysteriously conveniently changing here today to be one hour earlier and again in a few days to another hour earlier, everything should be kosher (and I will use kosher there.....take that Arab world!)

We never really feel uneasy or nervous, other than not knowing where we are going or what people are saying....but other than that Mrs Lincoln, how was the play? But seriously though, Moroccans, to this point at least, have been very nice, patient, and not in our face too much. They seem to accept us as backpackers and our accompanying Western ways. Kaitlyn has worn longer shorts and pants and shirts with short sleeves and has not been gawked at too much, other than for how pretty she is anyway of course. All in all, things are going well!

Until Fez, I bid you adieu!

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Bus ride from hell?!?!

Yes, already...today we took a bus from chefchouan to another little city along our route to Fez. The bus, which resembled an American charter bus was far from what you may be thinking of! The "company"-note: I use the term loosely...its a room with a desk- sold more tickets than there were seats. Luckily, we got a seat because we were naive thinking it would leave on time; Unfortunately, many others, including the smelly business man standing with his armpit in my face was not so naive. Have I mentioned there was no air conditioning and one tiny little window cracked allowing me to get up and walk over for the occassional breather to ward off any heat and odor induced closterphobic tendancies I may have been developing. And yes, being a sweater, I was drenched in sweat; although smelling like a rose in comparison.

BUT...I would do it again to have gotten to see Chefchouan. What a beautiful city! And the people really were wonderful!! I never felt uncomfortable - although I did not venture far from Joe. No men grabbing or catcalling, which i have been warned to expect in other places like Egypt. For my first Arab country I must report that I am pleasantly surprised and impressed. I had mentally and physically prepared myself otherwise! I will post some pictures of the city so you can see how pretty the blue little mountain town was! All in all Morocco is beautiful and very friendly to tourists!

We have been lucky to have met some great travel companions along the way...today we met a Canadian couple on the bus who we then shared a cab with to a town about 30 minutes from where the bus let us off. We all assumed that the cab would be the 4 of us...trick! The driver insisted we sit four wide in the back and meanwhile two grown men sat double in the front seat. Haha! I am impressed by their green ways!?!?

It is interesting how muh western music they play...currently in this internet cafe they are playing "you have to know when to hold em, know when to fold em, know when to walk away and know when to run." I feel right at home!

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Shakrem....Or Gracias....Or Merci....


And....Here we are....Chefchaouen, Morocco! It all doesnt seem quite real yet. We had a wild day yesterday between the 6 hour train from Madrid to the port of Algeciras; Spain, to the ferry ride that seemed to take forever to ¨Tangiers¨, which then required a 40 minute bus ride to the actual city, and then a roller coaster 2 hour taxi ride to this small hillside village, arriving around 11 pm. No worries though as we picked up two fine assets on the ferry ride over, a lone Japanese girl who spoke French which came in handy and a globe trekking Aussie who was well prepared with knowledge. Together, we were safe and quite a team!

This is a gorgeous town, with blue building and amazing doorways surrounded by a medina, or fortified wall, with winding streets and alleyways, truly a great introduction to the country. We are unable to find wireless internet to use our computer but will try again tomorrow so stay tuned for a greater update and more pictures! These keyboards are rough! We will stay here tomorrow as well and relax some in this really authentic place before hitting the road again on Monday towards Fes.Until later, we are safe, happy, pinching ourselves because it seems like we are dreaming.......and yes, even still getting along!!!

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Wednesday, August 4, 2010

And We're Off...

We left today...finally! After all the packing and organizing, we are now en route to our great adventure, which currently consists of sitting in the Toronto airport. In a few hours we will be off to Madrid, arriving tomorrow morning around 11 am there.

The past few days we've been packing, unpacking, eliminating, prioritizing and repacking...

We had a few days to relax and take care of a few loose ends while spending time with family in Albany. My grandmother and sister and Joe's mom were all in town! It was wonderful to have them there and get some quality time with family...Plus, we had a good time relaxing and eating a few good meals before we left...unsure of what we will be eating for the next few months! (probably most traumatizing for joe.) We decided to add a "foods we eat" tab to our blog - so we'll do our best to decipher what it is exactly we are sustaining ourselves on!

Don't forget to comment on our blog and email to keep in touch...we are excited to hear from yall!

Kaitlyn


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